The Easymax solar maximiser (or solar maximizer if your in the US), can be used to charge batteries, drives motors, or anything where a typical solar panel was used. It is very easy to set up, and will find you solar panels maximum power point at a push of a button.

It is rated at up to 15 watts. It will handle input currents up to 3 amps, or voltages up to 25 volts.

The documentation can be found here:
http://www.solarfreaks.com/easymax-documentation-t2.html

Easymax III solar optimiser is now available.
This is the most efficient optimiser in the competition.

Measured efficiency below: With a 15 volt input at 6 watts.

Vout: 3 volts 89% efficient
Vout: 6 volts 94% efficient
Vout: 12volts 97% efficient
Vout: Vin 98% efficient

Same I/V sweeping function as the original easymax.




This is also 40% smaller and 60% lighter.
can be purchased online from http://www.dreamtec-rc.com or email me directly.

Ok, Seems good but technically how does it compare to the older version?

Is it better or the same?

Its slightly more efficient at lower output voltages due to synchronous rectification, so you don't have any losses in the non-synchronous diode. However at higher output voltages, or as the output approaches the the input voltage, the efficiency difference is negligible.

Therefore, theoretically, you should have more starting power, and perform even better under low light.
Version 2.1 already performed well under these conditions due to the low loss diode, however overall, the new version is a better performer.

Also lighter, and smaller.

to confirm what tony has said,

we won the NSW state titles again thsi year using this maximiser.

the car did a lap in 3% sunlight. it took 2.5 minutes, but it was still a lap.

Easymax 3 PCB undershot. This maximiser is designed to fit a standard mini deans plug which can be purchased from any hobby shop.

Our school begun testing the cars, complete with two cars on the Easymax III and one on the Easymax II, and we encountered some problems. We set up the Maximiser as shown and in the right way with the use of the button. When we let go of the wheel it spun, as you would expect it to. However, when we stopped the motor using a microswitch - to place the car on our track - and then released the microswitch the motor did not spin. The same phenomenon occured on all three cars running three separate Maximisers and we had to disconnect (and reconnect) the motor for the symptoms to pass.

Is the force stopping the motor from spinning the EMF Current generated by the motor acting as a generator? and if so is there a way to stop this from occuring, or to combat it?

Hmm, that is very odd. It shouldn't lock out if the you wired the microswitch as shown in wiring diagram.
Just a few questions..

Are you using both a microswitch (to stop wheel spin) and a normal on/off switch?
What happens when you place your car on the track and use the normal on/off switch only?
Does this only occur when you use the microswitch?

If your micro switch is currently wired to short out the panel like this..



Try re-wiring it to short the output like this


Also, whats your panel voltage and current?

Yes, We are using the microswitch as shown in the diagram in conjunction with a normal 2-way switch.

The problem seemed to occur even when the micsoswitch was disconnected, but still only after the optimiser had been set - the motor spun - then turned off and then on again. Could it possibly be a problem with the motor?

Our panel specs are 13 Volts and 7.3 watts.

Thanks for your help.

What motor are you using?
The maximiser has been thoroughly tested with the faulhaber 2232, but i dont think that matters anyways.

What was the light level like?
Did you manage to race with optimiser at all?

I know that the problem occurred using both the 2232 and the 2233, both at high light levels. The problem seemed strange to us because it occurred some times and not others - we set really fast laps previously and then it stopped working out of nowhere.

If it is something to do with the EMF would turning the motor/wheel overcome it? - the problem is we cant test it because we cant effectively recreate the events/symptoms. We just don't want it to happen on race day and forfeiting a race because of it.

Also - I forgot to mention this before but the Light on the Maximiser Was not working when all this was happening.

Ok, there we go. If the light on the maximiser doesn't flash, it means the brownout detection on the CPU has engaged.
The maximiser will sleep if it detects low or fluctuating voltages on the input. The threshold for the brownout detection is set via the software, and i have a feeling it is set too high. The problem is an easy fix via a firmware update.

I can update the maximisers for you but ill need you to send them back.

Also, once the motor does begin to spin and the maximizer light starts flashing again, it means normal operation again.
Once the output voltage rises, as in the motor spins a little bit, the problem will be overcome, and it cant occur while the actual motor is spinning/or stalled already.

How was the performance of the easymax 2 compared to the easymax 3??
If you like i can replace the easymax 2 for the version 3.

Ok, Thanks for that - I will have to talk to our coordinator about sending them back. I'll also let him know about the replacment.

Thanks