by jhg » Sun Nov 08, 2009 1:05 am
PWK, may I ask how did your car crash? Sounds like one heck of a crash. We had accidents of our own, which were never too difficult to solve. Our cars never crashed but our stopping methods were to brittle for our cars to handle! It is obvious why this was so, if you have a look at Horizon 3. BALSA! Easy to work with, but be prepared to fix it if anything happens.
So for the nationals, we're going to cloak the panel with a towel like Velox did last year.
One of the front casters came off when one of my team members applied downward pressure onto the car when stopping it, which chipped the supporting balsa off. It only took two minutes to repair! Although I did panic because I wasn't sure if I could fix it. Also, the winning car in the W.A competition lost its front guides several times (4), until the boy repaired it properly! They were under serious pressure, especially because in the top 16 they vs. seeding 2. They won by 2-4meters still. After each race against Belridges car, they had to reattach the guides! I know what John Jeffery's would be saying right about now, "I TOLD YOU SO." The place not to save weight on is with your guides!
But hey, what’s the fun without experimenting and taking everything to the edge! Well that is if your prepared for the consequences!
It is understandable why Syndal South PS wouldn't have won the first lap. The main reason I will be suggesting is only one factor! It's weight! 500grams chassis and body alone. I wouldn't like to push start a car which is 2 times heavier than it needs to be! Although it picks up speed slower; a heck of force is required to stop it. Inertia! That’s why Scorpion performed better in the second lap.
I will have to say the most important part of the car is the maximizer! Everyone uses the similar things, design, motor, panels! Adjust your maximizer with the panel the first time correctly and you don't have to panic ever again. Unless it gets damaged of course. Our seeding in the W.P. competition was a bit off the first day, especially with heaps of car taking their cars home and adjusting parts! As you may know, our cars were seeded 1, 3, and 4. So I’m not chasing after speed but I am looking into the ways we can improve their efficiency. I hesitated to allow the boys with the best seeding to adjust their maximizer on the second day because what if something went wrong. I help adjust it and the car went even faster! In the meantime, our cars which were seeded 3rd and 4th seriously need adjusting to theirs. It was evidence that they weren't kicking in at the start for some reason as well as they should. On the second day when we developed a better method of adjusting the maximizers they worked 100% better than they did on the first day! The kicked in straight away, rather than rolling for a meter or two before it start to accelerate faster. If you have your maximizer adjust properly don't fall a victim to readjusting. A clear example is Winthrop B.C. Their car performed extremely well on the first day being 0.2seconds of our 3 and 4th seed. However I think when they saw us adjust our maximizers, they followed because for some reason our cars were all performing exceptionally well. We also made it quite public that we were adjusting our maximizer because we were so close to the track (Not intentional) if you have all this right, you should have a car travelling at a constant speed.
On the other hand, know your panel back to front. This determines the gear ratio; you probably should use. After that, you shouldn't have to change it; even if the sun changes from 100% to 40%. Well that’s from my observations with our cars. John will most probably agree with this as a decent maximizer will do the trick. All our cars use John's maximizer, maybe it’s because his our only source atm.
I have seen most of the Box Hill cars! They all have their advantages and disadvantages! Just use your basic knowledge of physics principals. The question is, which design do you pursue? The internet has many resources and past cars you can copy. So if you build it right then next year you will make it into the nationals. That is if the other cars don't follow the same concepts too. In theory and if properly built, a three wheeler driven by the back will be the most efficient. However if you have a design from four years ago, then keep the idea. In 2007 I had a design like Killswitch. Over the past 3 year which our school has been a part of this competition, we have explored a number of designs. Now we found one. Examine criticise and improve it! That’s what we have done.
Yes, it is a great achievement to get a good power: weight ratio (200). Last year Horizon 2 had 149 (no extra 20% for using a maximiser). However this year our power: weight ratio is still under 180 slightly. In the vic competition the lowest power: weight ratio for cars using maximizer was 185 by Allez - Box Hill (not in the top 8) However Killswitch which placed second had a 190 ratio. Most certainly the highlight is 175 ratio by Skylite by Geelong HS which didn’t us a maximizer but still places 4th. The winning car actually had a power: weight ratio of 213.
No that’s not true. Nothings complicated about this competition. Carbon Fibre can be bought at any hobby shop - if not they can be order it in for you. In 2007 we used materials lying around. However in 2008 we found art craft stress skin materials, balsa and bought foam to make our three designs. This year we did some extensive testing on materials with balsa coming up on top. So basically all of our cars used it. In 2007 we bought a carbon fibre rod which cost $6. We didn’t even end up using it so one of the students took it home. The fibres were starting to split. It wasn't until after the Western Australian Comp this year until I realised carbon fibre isn't bad ($2 increase in price), if you know how to work with it properly. If you save weight here and there it can be as light as balsa. Balsa 1cm*1cm per metre weighs 15grams, while a 6mm carbon fibre rod weighs 21grams per metre. Balsa is also easier to shape and attaches on to anything if you use super glue. Carbon fibre, nothing really glues on well. = [So you have to add nuts and bolts to be sure the bonds don't break. (With my new car I have simply gone with glue-although I do worry about the joints and the carbon fibre splitting). But I know I will not throw in the towel!
Mill Drill? Is that how you make your wheels? We use a lathe. However last year there was a school which used laser to cut their wheels and in fact the whole car. I think it was a Vic school. They entered a similar car this year. Girrawheen SHS is a public school and we do struggle to get our car parts accurate. If you work with balsa, you don't need a mill drill. In fact this year we didn't use it at all! All the materials were recycled. All the holes we needed on the balsa were slowly twisted out using a drill piece. You can use a normal hand drill, although it won't be accurate. For my new design, I do have around 50 holes drilled out to keep the weight down on my aluminium framing.
Many thanks to Marc, for the Vic data sheet of the Cars
P.S - As I said before, I would like to see all yours cars; however i would love it more if you had a look at ours too. We may learn a thing or two from each other! I might write an article in conjunction with John Jeffery later on this year called SMCC-Learning the hard way!